Onshore breeze and height of waves

Onshore breeze and height of waves
Posted 2024, Dec 23 22:53
I got the question on the test wrong. "Bigger waves should be expected with an 'onshore breeze' ". Onshore breeze is your answer. From my surfing days, an offshore breeze held the waves up and kept them bigger. And when I Google this it agrees with me "An onshore breeze typically results in lower wave heights..." But NED AI agrees with your interpretation. It's confusing.
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Reply 2024, Dec 24 04:39
Agree with you regarding surfing but that is a close shore phenomenon for breakers. And onshore breeze creates waves in addition to distant swells so the effect is additive although not good for the breakers. On shore from far out has time to build waves. Off shore has no time or distance to build waves. Waves have two sources wind and swell.
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Reply 2024, Dec 24 11:48
Understand, and thanks. But I think the course could be less confusing. In the section on Waves, Swells, and Depth under the video A Rough Ride, it says "Distance from shore: when you have an offshore breeze the waves get larger the further from the shore." Part of the confusion might be that the discussion around onshore and offshore in the course seems to be local to the coast. The take home messages for me were to be wary when anchored near the shore since the wind may change and also the course says near the shore may be a good place to find wind. Maybe some distinction should be made between close shore phenomenon and far out phenomenon where onshore would build waves. Enjoying the course!
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